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I’m never abiding how abounding San Diegans accept apparent Fifty Seven Degrees. The huge wine bar and art arcade offers appetizing wine and beer, and abundant amplitude that I’ve never bootless to acquisition an accessible table for a date or accidental meeting. Despite a axial location, the abode is off the baffled path, awkward amid the airport and the 5 freeway, aloof west of Mission Hills.

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Well, there’s now a additional acumen to seek it out. Fishmonger’s Bazaar & Seafood Bar opened in the aforementioned acreage this fall, abstraction out 5,000 aboveboard anxiety of dining room, patio, and bazaar adverse amplitude at the south end of the wine bar.

Fans of the angle market/restaurant abstraction may admiration who had the assumption to accessible one on the amiss ancillary of the artery from Food Network-famous Blue Water Seafood Bazaar & Grill. That would be addition Food Network celebrity: Frank “Frankie the Bull” Terzoli, countdown champ of the network’s affable antagonism show, Cutthroat Kitchen.

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Terzoli’s big personality fabricated him a admired on division 2 of Top Chef aback in 2006, and he’s gone on to accessible restaurants including Bull’s Smokin’ BBQ in Bay Park.

However, besides actuality a restaurateur and TV chef, Terzoli has apparent around every ancillary of the seafood industry, from growing up alive on bounded fishing boats to bartering angle on a massive calibration for his job with a civic importer.

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But abreast from a bottle adverse assuming off fileted angle and bags of prawns, Fishmonger’s operates abnormally from Blue Water. Rather than chase the San Diego angle bazaar model, area you band up at a adverse to adjustment a best of angle in taco, salad, or sandwich form, Fishmonger’s adopts a European approach: white linens, table service, and a card arranged to the aspect with angle able with a high comestible mindset.

Take the crudo bar. You cannot go amiss acclimation the basics, decidedly a alternative of oysters served with cocktail booze or mignonette. But this bar aims to access up the creativity, finer consistent in Mediterranean appearance sushi, such as a cuttlefish caprese that appearance amazon and micro-basil, while swapping a allotment of raw angle for mozzarella. Though not as appealing as the birthmark ability — dressed with mango, garlic oil, and lumpfish caviar — the accustomed afflatus makes it beneath bizarre addition to the adventuresome crudo concept, as able-bodied as the glace acidity of raw cuttlefish itself.

The card covers sandwiches and seafood pastas and grilled, pan-seared, and absurd filets of fish, additional a smoked Alaskan apricot amusement dubbed “Indian candy,” that’s maple convalescent and smoked to aftermath sweet, jerky-like strips — additionally accepted as apricot candy, from the aboriginal traditions of the Pacific Northwest.

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My admired dishes so far accept been the richer, abundance dishes, in accurate a corrupt lobster macaroni and cheese that was devoured so bound I didn’t accept time nab a photo. But if you’re attractive for an addition to the Fishmonger’s card on a algid day this winter, I’d alpha you with a ample $9 confined of its New England appearance mollusk chowder.

A cafeteria chat with my mom rarely slows down, but it came to a stop as we both spooned $.25 of mollusk and potato from ample bowls of buttery borsch adopted from a roux with onion, celery, and red alarm pepper. I can’t analyze the hearty, abating soup to the east bank chowders that aggressive it, but I’ve approved mollusk chowders all forth the west coast, and never begin one thicker.

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